Chinatown
As did every other immigrant group, the Chinese came by the thousands to San
Francisco in 1849, seeking wealth from the newly discovered gold. Feared and hated
by whites, the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 put an end to Chinese immigration and
subjected those already here to appalling racism. Consequently Chinatown grew to be
a haven and home for Chinese and a tightly knit community.
The sights and smells of Chinatown are much the same as they have been for over 150
years. It is a chaotic part of the city, with shops' merchandise spilling out onto
the sidewalks, a thousand restaurants, the narrow streets choked with people.
There are two main streets in Chinatown: Grant and Stockton. Grant Street is the
most heavily touristed, with shops selling all sorts of souvenirs and knick-knacks,
and toys that beep, buzz, and whirr. Stockton is where most of the residents of
Chinatown do their own shopping. Here no one seems to speak any English as business
is conducted in a variety of Chinese dialects.
Sights
Ross Alley: Between Grant and Stockton, and Washington and Jackson
Ross Alley is a cosy little street decorated with murals depicting common Chinatown
street scenes. And in Ross Alley is...
The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory: 56 Ross Alley (at Grant)
This is a nice place to stop and have a look at while in Chinatown. It is said that
fortune cookies were invented in San Francisco, and in this little shop you can
watch them being made. kids love it!
Portsmouth Square: Kearney St. between Washington and Clay. For many, Portsmouth
Square is the true birthplace of the city. Named after Captain John Montgomery's
ship the USS Portsmouth, here California was claimed for the US and Yerba Buena was
founded. Here too William Brannan announced there was gold in the hills and began
the Gold Rush that was to transform the town into a metropolis. These days it is a
meeting place for Chinatown residents who are often to be seen practicing tai chi.
There is a lovely view of the city skyline, and robert Louis Stevenson once enjoyed
coming here.
Cable Car Museum: 1201 Mason St. (at Washington)
Here you can find out how the cars work, and watch the machinery that makes it all
possible. Vintage cable cars, astounding facts and many old photos all make this
museum a worthwhile point of interest.
Shopping
Grant Avenue shops:
Grant avenue is packed with shops selling all the cheap souvenirs of San Francisco
you could possibly desire, and many more you would not. One shop you do not want to
miss is the Chinatown Kite Shop, on 717 Grant Avenue. Across the road is The Wok
Shop, where you can buy all manner of Chinese cooking utensil.
Dining
House of Nan King: 919 Kearney St. (at Columbus St)
Lalune says this is great and she'll have to fill this bit in.
Viet Nam Deli Sandwich: Broadway at Columbus
Right on the border between North Beach and Chinatown, yet another Vietnamese
sandwich shop with good cheap sandwiches; open late, a great choice after you have
been drinking in North Beach.
Drinking
Buddha Bar: 901 Grant St. (at Washington St.)
The best thing about this place is the giant neon sign outside. There's a real
variety of patrons. Caroline has been here, so she'll have to fill us in.
Li-Po lounge: 916 Grant St. (at Jackson)
Broke-Ass Stuart reckons this is a very unique place. upstairs is a lounge decorated
after a very Chinese fashion, and below is a cavernous basement for parties,
like 80s night on Fridays.
Grant Street
Buddha Bar